Eight days on the Nile and none of them in a hurry. Three nights in Luxor to find your feet among the great temples, then four nights aboard a sailing dahabeya that carries you south to Aswan at the speed of the wind. Yoga twice a day, on deck, with the river beside you.
Most retreats put you in a room with a view of a room. This one puts the practice on the open deck of a boat that moves, so the light is different every morning and the sound behind the breath is water rather than air conditioning. That is the whole idea, and it is also the reason the group stays small.
How the two halves fit together
Luxor first, on land, for three nights. That is where the demanding sightseeing sits: Karnak, Luxor Temple, the Valley of the Kings, Hatshepsut and Medinet Habu. Doing it from a hotel means you are not carrying a suitcase around it, and it means the boat days afterwards are genuinely restful rather than a second itinerary.
Then four nights under sail from Esna to Aswan. Esna, Edfu, Kom Ombo and Philae are on the way and each is a morning rather than a day. The rest is deck, water, and a good deal of nothing.
The practice
Twice a day with a dedicated teacher: something active at first light, something slower as the sun goes down. No experience is required and none is assumed. The group is small enough that the session is built around the people actually in it, which is not something a studio class can do.
It is worth knowing where you will be practising. A dahabeya deck is flat, shaded and open on all sides. In November and March that is close to perfect. It is also outdoors, so wind and a cool morning are part of it. Bring something warm for the first session; people are always surprised by how cold the river is before the sun clears the bank.
A group, not a private journey
Places are sold individually and the boat has only a handful of cabins, so you travel with other people. For a retreat that is usually the point rather than the compromise — by the third evening the same eight or ten faces are around the table and the conversation has moved past where everybody is from.
If you would rather have the whole thing to yourselves, we do run this privately for a group that fills the boat. Tell us how many you are and we will price it.
Honestly
The temple mornings are early, because the tombs and Karnak are only pleasant before the heat and the coaches. A retreat does not exempt you from the Egyptian sun. If you came purely for the yoga and would rather sleep, you can — nothing is compulsory — but then you have paid for a boat and skipped the reason it is on this particular river.
Cabins on a dahabeya are compact, the stairs are narrow, and there is no lift, no pool and no spa. The food is fresh and largely plant-forward, cooked on board from local produce. If you have an allergy or something you cannot eat, tell us when you book rather than on day one — there is one cook and no second kitchen.
Who it suits
People who want the two things together and do not want to choose. Anyone who has done a retreat in a hotel and found it slightly airless. Solo travellers, who are the majority on this one and who find a boat of ten an easier room to walk into than a hotel of two hundred.
Less so if you want a private journey, a full spa, or a fixed daily schedule you can set your watch by. The river does not work that way.
Slower, or differently — always possible. Tell us how you like to travel and we will rebuild the day around it.
Before you book, it is worth knowing which months are kindest on the river — for a retreat practised outdoors it matters more than usual. If the boat is the part you are unsure about, here is what a dahabeya is like against a cruise ship, and which tombs are worth your three in the Valley of the Kings.
Diese Reise auf Deutsch: Yoga-Retreat auf einer Dahabeya: Luxor & Assuan